Goodyear welting



July 17, 1934. J w s c 1,966,527

GOODYEAR WELTING I Filed April 14', 1931 m5 flew?" roove cutinthe fl .-,The present invention relates" to ment in Goodyear welting. f

i'lh pw n use in e manu ured G od: y a-.11 h e v iec diner lx-e strip o leath n hl side nearone redgfeito ref-'; ceive the inseamwbywhich the insole, lining, upper; and, welt are united. 'The sole is united to the welt by the outseam which is sewed. through. the opposite edge of the welt-from the inseam-groove. The cost of welting is determinedin laifge'part, by the thickness of the welt. v

-The object of the .present invention tof'pi'o duce an improved form o f w eiting in which the. thickness of the outer edge of the weltis me eased; without increasing the thickness .of. the leatherv from which it is made, The invention ,consistsin' the Goodyear welting hereinafter I described and. particularly defined in the claims; I 1. "1.1 j'

In the accompanying drawing illustrating the: invention, 1 is'aperspective viewf'of a piece invention; Fig. 2 is a similar-view'of a inodified', form of -welting embodying. the. invention; ahd. Fig. 3 is a cross-section of a strip of 'welting'show'-' ing1 -the:rnethod of cutting the welting to produce a the form of welt shown in Fig; 2.

the welt is slashed The invention is described as follows: In the preferred form (Fig. l) a welt strip of leather is split or slashed at the edge, which is to be the groove edge of the welt, with an incision parallel to the top and bottom surfaces of the welt. Then the flap formed by the incision is turned back on the body of the welt and cemented thereto, after which the welting is grooved and beveled, as shown, for the inseam stitches. The body 10 of or split on the plane indicated by the line 11, starting from the groove edge of the welt and extending inwardly about half of the width of the welt. The thickness of this flap will be less than that of the body of the welt remaining after the flap is removed. Then the flap 12 is turned over in the position shown in Fig. 1, and cemented on the line 13 to the body of the welt 10. The resulting welt strip is therefore :thicker than the original substance of the outer portion by an amount equal to the thickness of the flap cut from the body of the welt by the slash or slit in the groove edge thereof. The shoe sole is sewed by the out-seam to the outwardly extended portion of the welt (the left-hand portion asviewed in Fig. 1 the threads of the out-seam extend through the welt and the turned back flap and through the sole of the shoe.

The modified form of the invention shown in Fig. 2 is one in which the welt body is doubly t oooDrEAR WE 'L IN f ass'xw;ffst@e mast-s41 -*Afii lii'tii nAi i; 4:1 333Swe ?!5 9 945 ff '15 slitted toform an'extended flap. making this,

form of rwelt, the body of. the welt 2Ov is slitted by eating mar slit -21Qa'n'da1."straight slit 22; I These two slits areur'iited at the edge ofthe welt at'2 3,, and 'aftef" the. 'slit'sarje cutfin the welt, this two layerfflapffijs'. fiattehedjout, as shown at '24, and oernentedtdthe body' 6f the'weltf KUNJITED PATENT T- T "In. this modified form of the invention, theifia p;

is made "of two portions 'o'f the welt; united together at their ends and they are thus folded out over theiout seamreciying' portion of the body of the 1welt"to serve to' increa'se its thickness and threforeto'enhanceits value. Thusjif the orgi? nal leather of which the welt is made were, say

r' 'n inch thick'and the flap were cut 'of an" inch thickjthe resulting out-seam portion ofthe weltwould be ,1/8O1 ofan inch thick, thereby increasing its thickness 33 and enhancing its value as awelt, not a full 33%9 3, but to anxinv c'r' ed amount. Thef'cost of the operationsnecessaryttobe performed irif"mak l g this welting is somewhatgreater" than that of making ordinary solid welting, but such cost is less than the incr'ease'd value of the welt after. the operation has 'een performed on it: 'a'nd'the finished welting is produced". t j p v V The preferred form of theinv'ention' (Fig.- 1) is adapted for the general run of Goodyear welting including close edge welts. The modified form (Fig. 2) is adapted for wide welts including extension-edge welts. Both forms of the invention produce a welt of a given thickness from leather of less thickness, thereby reducing the cost of the welting.

Another feature of this invention resides in the fact that the inseam portion of the welt, being thinner than the main body of the welt, conduces to the making of a better inseam, as the inseam portion of the welt being thinner than the body of the welt, bends to fit itself to the insole and upper more easily and thereby secures a tighter and stronger inseam.

A welt made in the section shown in Figs. 1 and 2, or substantially that form, may be made of a single piece of leather and still have substantial advantages over the ordinary uni-form thickness welting. Thus, with a welting having an out-seam portion of an inch thick, the inseam portion may be reduced in thickness, say, to 3% or of an inch, andgroo'ved for the inseam on the side opposite the exposed side of the welt. Then when the inseam is sewed, the thinner portion of the welt is turned up and united to the upper, lining and insole. The reduction of the thickness of the inseam portion of the welt I the flap was separated.

3'0 3. TA Goodyear welt slashed at the groove edge is accomplished by slitting off a layer of this portion of the welt or of an inch thick. The strip of removed stock has a market value for other purposes, besides enhancing the value of the welt. This shape of welt facilitates the inseam sewing operation by removing the otherwise cumbersome thick edge inseam portion of the welt and makes the inseam portion of the welt fold longitudinally with ease to closely embrace the inseam thread in the groove.

What is claimed is:

l. A Goodyear welt having an outseam edge portion and an inseam edge portion, the out-- seam edge portion being thickened andthe in seam edge portion being reduced by the transfer to the former from the latter of a portion thereof, a shoulder between the outseam and inseam edge portions, the latter having an inseam groove out in the same surface of the welt from which-the tudinal'ly of the welt back upon the surface of the unslashed portion and cemented thereto, and the portion from which the flap'was out being provided with a groove on the surface from which with anv incision parallel to one surface'of the welt and folded longitudinally of the welt back upon the surface of the unslas'hed portion .to

form a thicker and a thinner portion, said thinner portion having an inseam groove in the surface formed by said incision.

4. The method of forming a Goodyear welt, which comprises slashing the groove edge with an incision parallel to the bottom surface of the welt, foldingthe resulting strip longitudinally of the welt back upon the unslashed portion, of the body of the welt, cementing the folded strip thereto, and cutting an inseam groove in the incised surface of the thinner portion of. the welt at a distance from the fold between the strip and the body of the welt.

5. The method of forming a Goodyear welt with thick and thin portions which comprises forming incisions parallel to the bottom surface, folding the resulting strips longitudinally of the welt back upon the body of the welt, so that the thicker portion of the welt will be of greater width than the thinner, and cementing the folded strips in place.

6.'The method of forming a Goodyear welt with thick and thin portions which comprises slashing the grooved edge to form two strips, forming an angular incision in one of the resulting strips to form two parallel flaps connected togethenat the grooved edge, aligning the flaps to increase the width of the strip from which said flaps 'were formed, folding the strip so formed back upon the body of the welt, and cementing the strip in place.

7. A Goodyear welt having an outseam edge portion and an inseam edgeportion, both of said portions having a grains'urfac'e all i-n the same plane and the inseam edgeportion being of reduced'th'ickness and'being provided witha thread receiving groove on the noh-grain-s'urface' spaced from the portiofnbfthe welt of unreduced thickness' to provide a flexing portion between the groove andthe unreduced portion to facilitate the bending of the inseam po'rtion'of the welt.

, 8. A Goodyear welt slashed at the grooveedge with an" incision-parallel to the bottom surface of the welt to form a flap,- saicl-flap being folded longitudinally of the welt back upon the nongrain surface of the unslashed body of the welt, and cemented to increase the thickness of the unsl-ashed body. I

9. The method of forming a Goodyear welt which comprises slashing the groove edge with an incision to form a fi'apffolding the resulting flap. longitudinally of the welt back upon the nongrain surface of the unslashed portion of the welt throughout the width thereof, and cementing the folded strip thereto to increase the thickness of the unslashed portion of the welt.

JAMES w'. SPENCE.

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